Using Evergreen Trees to Conceal Your Home

Among the various types of evergreens, eastern red cedars stand out as an excellent choice due to their fast growth, density, and utility.

SHTF & SECURITYHOME DEFENSE

8/27/20248 min read

Using Evergreen Trees to Conceal Your Home: A Natural Barrier for Privacy and Security

Concealing your home with evergreen trees is a time-tested strategy for enhancing privacy and security, especially for those who live off the grid or in rural areas. Evergreen trees, with their year-round foliage, provide a natural barrier that not only hides your home from prying eyes but also offers other practical benefits. Among the various types of evergreens, eastern red cedars stand out as an excellent choice due to their fast growth, density, and utility.

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The air was heavy that day, the kind of thick humidity that pressed on the chest and muted sound like an invisible fog. I was standing with a client at the edge of their property—a vast swath of land that seemed, at first glance, as exposed as a rooftop in a storm. We weren’t talking aesthetics. This was about survival, plain and simple. They wanted their home to disappear—not from a realtor’s map, but from the prying eyes of anyone who might be searching for easy targets when the world went sideways.

This wasn’t my first time planning soft cover for a retreat, and it wouldn’t be my last. Every tree planted, every shrub positioned, was another brick in the wall of concealment. We ended up planting about 50 ultra fast growing eastern red cedar evergreen trees spaced 12 to 15 feet apart at about 8 to 10 feet per new tree. We did it in February in the south, which meant the rainy season, to avoid having to water them. In a couple years the branches should begin overlapping, providing a full wall of cover all year around. We also planted smaller evergreen shrubs closer to the house.

The method for arranging trees in the proper locations, involves a second person standing at the home. I walk around the property at the exposed side and direct a person holding survey flags to move left or right etc. They place the flag at 12 foot increments and move to a new location. We use walkie talkies or phones to communicate. We repeated this with the smaller evergreen shrubs so that they are between the larger trees until the fully grow in. I hired trusted landscaping guys who used a skid steer with a 36 inch wide auger to make the hole height to the top of the root ball which had natural burlap that we cut open only at the top. We moderately packed in the dirt around each tree. This ensured his investment would last. While there, I also did an evaluation of long term water storage as well as defensive plans for home invasions. Prepping never ends, there is always new gear and threats that evolve that we need to be prepared for. For instance, the use of drones as a result of Ukraine.

When people think about securing their homes during a crisis, they usually jump straight to the Hollywood checklist—steel shutters, reinforced doors, maybe even a bunker. But there’s a glaring vulnerability in all of those fortifications: they’re obvious. If someone can see where you are, they’ll eventually figure out how to get to you. Soft cover is about the art of blending in, about vanishing into the landscape so thoroughly that even the most determined observer passes right by. It’s a tactic as old as war itself, and for good reason. The best way to avoid trouble is to make it look like there’s no trouble worth finding. As I discussed with another client, avoidance and evasion are critical to minimize casualties and conserve resources, including ammo.

Evergreens are the unsung heroes of concealment. They’re hardy, fast-growing in many climates, and provide year-round cover. Unlike deciduous trees that stand bare and skeletal in winter, a dense stand of firs, pines, or cedars remains a steadfast barrier no matter the season. A properly arranged perimeter of evergreens can break up the outline of a structure, obscure sightlines, and even dampen sound. When layered correctly—rows upon rows, with shorter shrubs interspersed between taller trees—they create a near-impenetrable wall that even a trained eye struggles to see through.

One client I worked with wanted their house concealed from both ground-level approaches and aerial surveillance. We didn’t just plant trees; we orchestrated a symphony of green. The tallest pines formed the first layer of defense, creating a canopy that cast shadows on the ground below. Beneath them, staggered rows of arborvitae and holly added depth and density, ensuring that gaps were nonexistent. Shrubs and ground cover filled in the spaces where sunlight pierced through. The result? From the air, the property looked like a seamless extension of the surrounding forest. From the ground, the house was invisible until you were practically knocking on the door.

The strategy isn’t limited to rural retreats, either. Suburban properties can also benefit from soft cover, though the approach requires more finesse. Evergreen hedges, strategically placed clusters of trees, and a focus on creating irregular patterns all help to obscure what’s behind the foliage. The key is to avoid anything that screams “manmade” if and when you can. Symmetry and overly tidy arrangements can undo the illusion, drawing attention rather than deflecting it.

Soft cover doesn’t just hide your home; it becomes a part of the ecosystem. Birds nest in the branches, further camouflaging the area with natural activity. The trees provide windbreaks and shade, reducing energy needs. They even act as a buffer against noise, creating a sense of quiet that’s as psychological as it is practical. In a crisis, these layers of protection are invaluable. They buy you time—time to assess, to prepare, to respond.

Working with clients over the years, I’ve learned that the best concealment plans are the ones that disappear into the environment without a trace. There’s a certain satisfaction in standing on a hill, scanning the horizon, and knowing that what you’re looking for is right in front of you, yet utterly invisible. The art of soft cover isn’t just about planting trees. It’s about planting doubt in anyone who might think they’re clever enough to find you. And in the world of survival, doubt can be your greatest ally.

The Benefits of Evergreen Trees for Home Concealment

1. Year-Round Concealment: Evergreen trees maintain their foliage throughout the year, unlike deciduous trees, which shed their leaves in the fall. This characteristic makes evergreens particularly valuable in the winter months when other trees are bare, leaving your home exposed. By planting a dense row of evergreens around your property, you can ensure that your home remains hidden even during the coldest months.

2. Fast-Growing Privacy Screens: Eastern red cedars (Juniperus virginiana) are a prime example of a fast-growing evergreen that can quickly provide a solid visual barrier. These trees can grow up to 24 inches per year under optimal conditions, allowing you to establish a thick, protective screen in just a few years. When planted strategically, they can block sightlines from roads, neighboring properties, or any other areas where privacy is a concern.

3. Adaptability and Hardiness: Eastern red cedars are incredibly adaptable and can thrive in a variety of soil types, including poor and rocky soils. They are also drought-resistant once established, making them low-maintenance options for long-term concealment. Their ability to grow in diverse conditions means they can be planted in almost any environment, providing a reliable shield regardless of the climate.

Strategic Planting for Optimal Concealment

When planning to use evergreen trees for concealment, it’s important to consider the layout and density of planting. A staggered or layered planting arrangement can create a more natural and effective barrier. Planting trees in rows with varying distances between them will also encourage denser growth, as each tree will have ample space to spread its branches.

Consider planting additional species of evergreens alongside eastern red cedars to create a diverse and resilient barrier. This diversity can help protect against diseases or pests that might affect one species more than another.

Harvesting Evergreens for Firewood in Emergencies

In addition to providing concealment, evergreen trees like eastern red cedars can serve as a valuable resource for firewood. By planting more trees than you immediately need for privacy, you create a renewable source of firewood that can be harvested in emergencies. Eastern red cedar wood is particularly prized for its aromatic quality and burns well, making it a good choice for heating your home in the winter.

When managing your evergreen barrier, selective thinning and pruning can help maintain the health and vigor of the trees while providing you with firewood. However, it’s important to harvest responsibly to avoid compromising the effectiveness of your concealment. By planning your planting with future harvesting in mind, you can create a sustainable system that meets both your privacy and fuel needs.

Planting a 6 to 8-foot tall eastern red cedar with a 2-foot burlap-wrapped root ball requires careful preparation and attention to detail to ensure the tree establishes well in its new location. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Materials Needed:

Shovel
Mulch
Water source (hose or watering can)
Pruning shears (optional)
Stakes and tree ties (if in a windy area)

Step-by-Step Planting Guide:

Choose the Right Location:
- Select a location that receives full sun to partial shade. Eastern red cedars prefer well-drained soil but can adapt to various soil types, including sandy, loamy, or even rocky soils.
- Ensure the area is spacious enough to accommodate the tree’s mature size, as these trees can grow up to 40-60 feet tall and 15-20 feet wide.
Dig the Planting Hole:
- Dig a hole that is 2-3 times the width of the root ball and slightly shallower than its height. The hole should be wide to allow the roots to spread easily but not too deep to avoid sinking the tree below ground level.
- The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil to promote proper drainage and prevent water from pooling around the trunk.
Prepare the Root Ball:
- Carefully remove any twine or wire from the root ball to prevent girdling.
- If the burlap is made of natural materials, you can leave it on the root ball as it will decompose over time. However, cut away and remove any synthetic burlap, as it won't decompose and could impede root growth.
Place the Tree in the Hole:
- Position the tree in the center of the hole, ensuring it stands straight. Adjust the height by adding or removing soil at the bottom of the hole as needed.
- Once positioned correctly, backfill the hole with the original soil. As you fill, gently tamp the soil down to remove air pockets, but don’t compact it too much, as this can impede root growth.
Water Thoroughly:
- After planting, water the tree thoroughly to settle the soil around the root ball. This helps eliminate air pockets and provides the roots with the moisture they need to establish.
- Watering should be deep and slow to encourage roots to grow downward. Continue to water regularly, especially during the first growing season.
Mulch Around the Base:
- Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree, extending out to the edge of the planting hole. Mulch helps retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
- Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup, which can lead to rot.
Stake the Tree (if necessary):
- If your area is prone to strong winds, consider staking the tree to provide stability while it establishes. Use soft tree ties and ensure they are not too tight to allow for some movement, which encourages stronger trunk development.
- Stakes should be removed after the first growing season once the tree has anchored itself.
Maintain:
- Check the tree regularly for signs of stress, such as wilting or yellowing leaves, and adjust watering as needed.
- Prune any broken or damaged branches, but avoid heavy pruning in the first year to allow the tree to establish fully.